Trip Reports

Day 0: Visiting the Headwaters of the Huron River

Our trip began long before we ever set our canoe on the water. Shortly after my paddling partner, Heather, arrived from Minnesota, we set out to find the headwaters of the Huron River. There, we experienced a beautiful, touching, and important ceremony. By visiting the headwaters of my home river, we not only got the opportunity to participate in the first step of Heather’s sacred journey, but also were able to experience the full beauty of this river from start to finish.

Heather is a first generation descendant of the Little Traverse Bay Band of Odawa Indians, and upon describing her upcoming trip to Ashinnabe elders, she was informed that her journey down the length of the Huron could be considered a Nibi (water) Paddle - a sacred journey in which members of the tribe pray for and show gratitude towards the life-giving water on which we so greatly rely. As I do not come from native heritage, I cannot speak fully about the aspects of this tradition and journey, but the following description from the NibiWalk website describes it eloquently:

“The Nibi Water Walks are based in Ojibwe Ceremonial Water Teachings. The reason we walk is to honor the rivers and all water and to speak to the water spirits so that there will be healthy rivers, lakes and oceans for our ancestors in the generations to come.

When we are walking for the water, we are in ceremony from the beginning of the day until we retire at day’s end. We try to move like the river, continuously all day long, every day until we reach our destination. We carry asemaa/tobacco with us to offer to any flowing streams or rivers we cross, also to honor any animals we may cross over along the roads or trails. When we walk, this is a time for prayer or songs for the water.

Women make the offerings for the water, sing the water songs and make the petitions for our water to be pure and clean and continuously flow down to us. Because we are in ceremony, women wear long skirts. We wear long skirts to show our respect for the grass, for mother earth and for ourselves. Women on their moon do not carry the water during this time, as they are already in ceremony.

Men carry the eagle feather staff, but if there are no males in attendance, then women can carry the staff and the copper vessel.

As a community of walkers, we carry the water in relay. Each woman carries the water for a little less than a mile and then passes the water to the next one. On average we might collectively carry the water 25-30 miles a day. Because this ceremony is about duration and following the water’s flow, the relay allows us to maintain our strength through a balance of rest and walking.

The Nibi Walk ceremony walks along the roads that follow the river most closely. Often we are on country highways. We may not visually see the river. Yet we are always carrying the river.

Ngah izitchigay nibi ohnjay– Anishinabe language for “I will do it for the water.” We say this phrase whenever we pass the water – both the person giving the water and the person receiving the water say it. “

Retrieved from: http://www.nibiwalk.org/protocols-for-the-nibi-walks/

Before coming to Michigan, Heather was gifted with the traditional and sacred items needed for this journey, and on her travels from Minnesota, she acquired a copper kettle that would serve as the vessel for the water gathered at the Huron’s headwaters.

After about an hour drive and a bumpy ride down a dirt road, we came to the access gate that led to the outlet stream of Big Lake in Commerce Township. This outlet stream is one of two sources of the Huron’s headwaters - the other being in the Huron Swamp, which was the second stop on our trip.

As we walked along this outlet stream, we were amazed by the plethora of flora and fauna that greeted us. Massive bass swam in the small outlet stream, and young green and wood frogs leapt away from us at every step. The shores were sprinkled with arrowroot, pickerelweed, and wild iris, and we marveled at the many crayfish burrows that made their presence known with small, muddy mounds.

The water was clear and healthy, and the plants and animals that greeted us spoke to the health of these headwaters. Heather gathered a bit of this water in her copper kettle, we admired the scenery a bit longer, and then we were off to our next stop at Indian Springs Metropark.

After paying the $10 entry fee to access the first of many parks affiliated with the Huron-Clinton Metropark system, we made our way to the Woodland Trail, which winds its way through critical wetland habitat that makes up the Huron Swamp. It was clear that this trail was meant to stay wild, as both bikes and dogs were prohibited. As we entered the swamp, the late afternoon light filtered through the treetops and gave an almost magical light to the clear streams and lush vegetation that surrounded us. We were the only humans on the path that late afternoon, and the short walk was filled with stillness and peace.

On a small footbridge, Heather collected more headwaters in her copper kettle and led songs, prayer, and ceremony to thank and honor the water and to ask for a blessing towards our journey. I was deeply honored and awed to bear witness and be acknowledged in this beautiful ceremony, which recognizes the incredible importance of this life-sustaining water that was to carry us the very next day. As Heather sang and prayed, chipmunks scurried across logs that spanned the spring, butterflies flitted nearby, and chickadees sang their sweet calls into the now early-evening sky. This swamp and these headwaters were special, and left me with a feeling of awe and appreciation for the river that we would be travelling over the course of the next five days. The Huron has a truly stunning beginning, and I am grateful to have seen its pristine beauty before embarking on our trip.

Day 1: Proud Lake State Recreation Area to

Canoe Campground at Island Lake State Recreation Area

15.6 Miles, 3 portages, about 8 hours paddle time

On the first day of our adventure we began with a leisurely start at my house, which is located just south of Ann Arbor. After dropping off Heather’s car with family for some repairs, we made our way to Proud Lake State Recreation Area in Commerce Township, MI. We had easy and free entry into the recreation area, as each year I purchase the Michigan Recreation Passport for $12 each year when I renew my license tabs. Just past the campground, we had no problem locating the Proud Lake Launch and soon we were on our way!

As we made our way through Proud Lake, we marveled at the abundant plants and animals. We spotted wild rice, cardinal flowers, and heron, among many other species. At one point in time we got a bit turned around in a muddy spot in Proud Lake, but after finding the main channel, we had no further problems navigating.

Soon we came to the dam at the end of Proud Lake, where families and walkers were enjoying the views from the walking bridge and low head dam. The portage was easy and short, and at this spot, we had our first curious onlooker ask about our trip. She wisely ascertained that we were “on an adventure” and was excited to hear about our trip and what we hoped to accomplish through it. Since then, she has donated to our fundraiser for the Huron River Watershed Council, which absolutely made our day when we found out!

The rest of the river that ran through the recreation area was gorgeous and full of many day-paddlers who utilized the livery services from Heavner Canoe & Kayak Rental. I was surprised by how many folks I saw on the river on a Monday morning, but during a pandemic, getting outdoors is a great way to enjoy some socially-distanced fun! The river was more than wide enough to pass others while maintaining a safe distance, and we had fun greeting folks as we made our way down the river. Despite being low, the water remained crystal clear, and we spotted perch, bluegill, and bass that swam beneath us at every turn.

By noon we had reached the weedy and still backwaters of Hubbel Pond, which lies upriver over the Milford Dam. Houses, a cemetery, and roads lined either side of this man-made lake, and the character of the water had changed entirely. It seemed more stagnant, less clear, and choked by weeds and algae that made the paddle a bit less enjoyable. One landmark of note was the old railroad bridge at Milford. Its stone structure was imposing, impressive, and reminded me of a similar railroad trestle where I work in Dexter, MI.

Soon, we came to the Milford dam. This was the first major dam that we had to portage, and thanks to the thoughtfully constructed, paddler-friendly design, it was an easy one to make. Rollers have been installed from the start to finish of this portage, which helped easily guide our canoe up and over the impoundment. Our friends who joined us on a later day of the trip noted that the distance between rollers were too spaced out for their shorter recreational kayaks, so this feature may be best suited for canoes or longer kayaks.

As soon as we were downriver of the dam, the water cleared back up, fish reappeared, and the river seemed back to its old self. Golf balls from a nearby golf course flashed underwater like bright eggs, and before we knew it, we were paddling the river through Kensington Metropark. As it was already mid-afternoon and,we were hungry, we happily pulled off at what appeared to be a group campground for lunch. As we beached our boat, a trail ride with two guides and a group of pre-teens rode their horses to the water before us. They rode their steeds upriver, which must have been a refreshing experience for the horses on a hot, upper-80’s day!

After enjoying a quick lunch, we returned to the river to meet up with Jesse, Heather’s childhood friend and former coworker of mine from my days at Camp Storer. We enjoyed the short stretch of river before the waters began opening up at Kent Lake. Kent Lake is a 5-mile long reservoir that is surrounded by Kensington Metropark. The shoreline is dotted with beaches, picnic spots, a water park, and plenty of places for people to enjoy the water. As we paddled through, I made note of the beaches where I might like to take my young son for a swim next Summer. There are also a few islands that I would love to explore further, but as we had miles to cover, we paddled right past them. I was thrilled to see our first ospreys sailing overhead, and some of the park is protected habitat for these fascinating raptors.

Unfortunately, this day was the first to introduce us to an unwelcome theme in our trip: Headwinds. The weather pattern was very strange the week that we tackled the Huron, and this would prove to be both a help and a hindrance. As we plowed on through these headwinds, we made our way towards the Kent Lake Dam, which was to be our last major portage of the day.

While it was easy to find a spot to pull our boat out of the water, there was not much signage guiding us to the official portage. As we walked around the dam, we found a narrow set of stairs that looked like they’d make a tricky trip down. However, as we walked further downstream, we found another slope, complete with boat rails to help guide our canoe down! It was a bit of a hike to get to those boat rails, and I later learned that an overhead carry would have made my life much easier. Fortunately, I learned the error of my ways later in the trip!

The stretch downriver of Kent Lake Dam was gorgeous. Despite the concrete weirs that made for some technical paddling in this stretch, we were greeted by the sight of clear water over a gravelly bottom that was full of fish. We were also joined by scores of fisherman along this stretch, and it was nice to see so many enjoying the beauty and resources of the river. As we made our way through the open marshland of Island Lake State Recreation area, we grew worried by dark clouds that loomed on the horizon. As the river slowed, we paddled harder around windblown trees until we finally made it to our campsite around 7 PM.

The canoe campgrounds at Island Lake are worth discussing. When I reserved our campsite, I let the office staff at the recreation area know that I’d be hammock camping and that I’d need trees for my equipment. She assured me that site #1 would be the spot for me as there was a boat dock and plenty of trees around the site. The boat dock was amazing, as the shoreline was fairly mucky in some spots, but the area around site one was weedy, full of dead trees (major no-no in hammock camping!), poison ivy, and vines. However, site #2 had gorgeous, stream-side and non-weedy forest sites for hanging a hammock. Had I taken the time to read Google reviews of this campground, I would have known this, but I put my trust in one phone conversation. My bad! As no one else was at the campground that night, we opted to switch over to the other site, where we had more room and better spots to set up camp. Having seen a strong line of thunderstorms approaching on my phone’s weather app, I set up in a more sheltered spot away from the river and put my tarp in “storm mode”, low above my hammock.

Heather and I enjoyed a Korean feast of rice, boil-in-bag curry and black bean sauce, miso soup, and assorted banchan. This was entirely inspired by my favorite Korean chef/YouTube personality, Maangchi, and her recent video about read-made Korean meals. I was too tired to fully enjoy the meal, but the boil-in-bag curry has been a go-to for my husband and I on several prior camping trips.

After dinner, Heather made a fantastic campfire (sadly, our only one on the trip) and we had a jam session with her mini guitar and my ukulele as we waited, and waited, for the storms to come. As the hour grew late and no rain materialized, we headed to bed. Before falling asleep for the night, I checked my weather app one more time. The storefront had split around us! Strange, but a trend that would continue later in our trip…

Highlights

• Proud Lake paddle was stunning and accessible by canoe livery

• Wildflowers colored the shoreline around our trips through Proud Lake and Island Lake State Recreation Areas

• Abundance of fish and wildlife

• Island Lake Campground has two beautiful sites (we preferred site #2), a clean pit toilet, and firewood is provided. We enjoyed the sounds of nature at night and a much needed swim at the end of our paddle!

Concerns

• Hubbel Pond in Milford was not a pleasant paddle with weed and scum on the water surface

• Paddling under I-96 road noise. Inevitable, but loud!

• Portage around Kent Lake Dam is not obvious, but we figured it out

• Concrete weirs downriver of Kent Lake Dam are an obstacle when the river is low. May be less of a concern in higher water

• Site #1 at Island Lake is smaller and more suitable for tent camping

• No potable water at the campground. This was the only time we needed to filter water on our trip to fill 2 1-gallon jugs and our nalgene bottles

Thoughts for the Future

• Exploring the shoreline, islands, and many spots along Kent Lake’s shoreline would make a fun day trip. There is a livery here that rents kayaks, paddle boats, and even swan boats to those who need them

• The stretch of river at Proud Lake State Recreation Area is gorgeous and also serviced by a livery for a great day trip

• For a shorter overnight trip, I would put in below Kent Lake Dam, sleep at the canoe campground at Island Lake, then take out at either the Island Lake (Placeway) Launch or, for a longer paddle until lunchtime, the Cedar Ridge Launch at Huron Meadows Metropark (to be discussed on Day 2)

Day 2: Canoe Campground at Island Lake State Recreation Area to Canoe Campground at Hudson Mills Metropark

22.75 Miles, 1 portage, about 8 hours paddle time

I woke up just before 6 AM on Day 2 and was greeted by the sights and sounds of nature around me. The river was quiet and still except for the sounds of the occasional fish leaping from the water to snag a bug for breakfast.

In true early bird form, I made a cup of coffee then headed down to the canoe dock to filter a bit of water for the start of our day. I was not particularly happy about having to filter river water given recent concerns regarding PFAS pollution, but as we were still fairly upriver and had not seen any obvious foam on the water thus far, I decided that our need to stay hydrated outweighed the risk of filtering water for our morning travels. In hindsight, I would have packed extra fresh water for the first leg of our trip, or would have filled up at the campsite at Kensington Metropark the day before.

After a quick breakfast and packing up camp, we were on our way for the next leg of our journey. The remainder of Island Lake State Recreation area was a surprisingly technical paddle, with plenty of windblown trees and obstacles. We had to pull our canoe over and under a few trees to make our way through this stretch, which slowed our progress but was no big deal. Along this section of river we spotted osprey, several bald eagles, and a variety of fish in the clear waters.

Between Island Lake Recreation Area and Huron Meadows Metropark, we paddled between stretches of privately-owned land. The properties that lined the river ranged from luxury, high-end homes to more humble abodes. This was the first time we saw homes with lawns that ran right up to the river - a feature that serves as a detriment to the river’s health. While much of the river’s banks are protected by a buffer zone between the water and private property, this was one of many sections where human impact made its way right up to the Huron.

Further impact on the river was spotted as we passed under US-23, where we observed stormwater runoff pipes from the highway leading directly to the river itself. While unavoidable, we always wondered about the impact of the Huron crossing beneath just about every major highway in Southeast Michigan.

Much to our delight, the next section of river through Huron Meadows Metropark let us through undisturbed, open floodplains. These floodplains act as a sort of filter for the river as the low wetlands. This is better explained through a bit of information I found through the Prairie Rivers Network:

“Rivers carry an array of pollutants like sediment and chemicals, particularly after storms. Floodplains provide space for flood waters to spread and slow, thereby allowing pollutant laden water to filter through the soil. This keeps river water cleaner for fish and wildlife, for drinking water, and for recreation.”

Retrieved from: https://prairierivers.org/priorities/wetlands-floodplains/

This stretch of river varied greatly as we paddled it, from shallow and weedy spots to deep, muck-bottomed pools. After enjoying this large network of floodplains and marshes, we came upon our planned lunch site at Cedar Ridge Launch. On a previous trip, I had used this location as a take-out point after a two-day, one night trip, and upon revisiting, I remembered what a long haul it was to get our boats up to the parking lot! There is no defined ramp or path for boat put-in and take-outs, but if one is willing to haul their boat a fair distance, it’s a suitable spot to start or end a trip.

The picnic spot was lovely. It was shaded by tall trees and full of picnic benches that could accommodate a large crowd. After having concerns about filtering water from the river earlier in the morning, we were excited to find a water-filling station at the bathrooms. We immediately dumped our two 1-gallon jugs full of river water, only do discover that said water station was turned off. Darn COVID! With a bit of ingenuity, we figured out how to transfer water from the sinks to our water jugs, and after enjoying a riverside lunch, we were on our way again.

As we finished our trip through Huron Meadows, we saw fewer and fewer paddlers and anglers on the river. The river entered privately-owned land once again, and we saw sights ranging from a pontoon boat graveyard full of dead, decaying watercraft floating on the river, to a treacherous rope swing that Heather desperately wanted to try out. As we asked one local about the rope swing, she muttered unhappily that it must have been made by “those rich kids from the fancy new subdivision”. The river slowed and widened as we continued on towards our next stretch of open water: The “Chain of Lakes”.

The Chain of Lakes is a series of lakes near Pickney that are surrounded by both year-round homes and Summer cottages. Our journey would take us through Strawberry Lake, Gallagher Lake, Whitewood Lake, and Base Line Lake and the many channels in between. All of these lakes had homes somewhere along their shores, and we took in the assortment of lakefront decorations, manicured gardens, and political signs that dotted the yards around each body of water. In true fashion with the rest of our trip, we faced headwinds through the lakes as we began to use our map skills (with some help from Google maps) to find the best route across each lake to the next channel. We paddled across choppy, open water well into the late afternoon, and as the day wore on, more and more boats began appearing on the lake. Finding the channels between each lake became easier and easier as we followed the early-evening parade of pontoon boats filled with residents enjoying their floating happy hours. At one point, we considered how much easier this trip would be had we utilized the Chain of Lakes Boat Tours and a ski rope, but we persisted and eventually found our way to Flook Dam.

The Flook Dam portage was an easy one, which we were grateful for after a long day of paddling. The portage involved a quick up-and-over the impoundment, and several signs there made it clear that we were not to linger around the dam any longer than needed. The stretch downriver of the dam was shallow, clear, and full of riffles. At first, we passed older, private properties on our left. Many had lawns that led right up to the river, but others were set back within wilder, more natural buffers between the homes and the shore. Much to our delight, we soon entered Hudson Mills Metropark and quickly came upon our second campsite of the trip.

The Hudson Mills Canoe Campground was hands-down my favorite camping spot of the entire trip. A gravel beach and low hill up to the site greeted us, and we were delighted to find a beautiful site full of mature oak trees, great river views, a large fire circle, water pump, and pit toilet. I found the perfect spot, complete with river view, for my hammock. Knowing the weather would be fair that night, I skipped hanging up a tarp and decided to sleep under the stars.

After setting up camp, Heather and I feasted on some chili mac, miso soup, and Halva bars, which Heather introduced me to and are RIDICULOUSLY good. That evening, we sat by the shores of the Huron, watching as the sun set behind the trees across the river from us. As we played music and sang out to the cool evening air, I felt incredibly grateful for such a great place to rest my head for the night and for the stretch of river that I knew would be coming the next day.

Highlights

• Island Lake & Huron Meadows Metroparks have beautiful, wild landscapes full of plants and animals

• Cedar Ridge area in Huron Meadows Metropark is a great lunch spot!

• The Chain of Lakes allowed for entertaining people watching

• The canoe campground at Hudson Mills was my favorite campsite on the trip, hands-down. Also the cheapest at $10/night, which is an absolute steal for such a great site!

Concerns

• Lots of downed trees throughout Island Lake State Recreation area. We didn’t have a problem dragging our canoe over and under logs, but this could be come hazardous in higher or faster water

• Increased development along this stretch of the river - lots of human impact from lawns to abandoned boats

• The Chain of Lakes could be very busy on a Summer/holiday weekend - we paddled across it on a late Tuesday afternoon and it was already pretty busy!

Thoughts for the Future

• Island Lake Recreation Area and Huron Meadows are great paddles and I will definitely do them again!

• It’s too bad there’s not an access point to the river before the Hudson Mills canoe camp. One could paddle upriver from the Rapids View Launch at Hudson Mills, but the site is not in a convenient spot for a 1-night trip. If one really wanted to paddle into the site (and I may just do this as I loved the site so much), they could launch at the DNR launch near Baseline Lake, portage the Flook Dam, and paddle another half hour downriver to Hudson Mills

Day 3: Canoe Campground at Hudson Mills Metropark to Dixboro Dam

20 Miles, 1 portage (up to 4 when rapids are dangerous), about 8 hours paddle time

As I woke up to a gorgeous, cool morning at the Hudson Mills canoe camp, I knew that we had a fun day ahead of us. The stretch from Hudson Mills Metropark to Delhi Metropark has been my go-to day trip for years, and I was excited to return to a section of river that I know very well. My excitement was compounded by the fact that, despite having lived in the Ann Arbor area for nearly 10 years, I had never paddled through Ann Arbor proper!

As anticipated, the stretch from Hudson Mills to Delhi was gorgeous. Cedar waxwings dipped and dived before us to catch the many bugs that hovered over clear waters and gentle riffles. The river flows through a major elevation change in this stretch, which makes for faster water and even a few sets of rapids. Our first set of rapids came shortly after leaving camp at the remains of the old mill at Hudson Mills. Having never paddled this stretch of rapids before we entered cautiously, but found them to be easy to navigate in the low water levels. One important note to stress is that we passed through all of this day’s rapids during low, late Summer water levels. In the Spring, these rapids can take on an entirely different character and pose many more challenges and risks to paddler. It is important to know river conditions and one’s skill level before deciding to tackle more technical paddling through any sort of rapids.

The paddle through Hudson Mills is gorgeous and is definitely a favorite trip of mine. For new paddlers and my preschool-aged son, the roughly two-hour stretch between the Rapids View launch at Hudson Mills and Dexter-Huron Metropark is a fantastic paddle. During the Summer (in non-COVID times) one can pull off at the intersection of Mast and Huron River roads to grab a cold drink at the party store and snag a hot dog from the seasonal cart that can be found there. In the fall, it is easy to pull up riverside to the Dexter Cider Mill, where one can snag donuts and fresh cider from Michigan’s oldest, continuously operating cider mill. It’s a fantastic trip for all ages and experience levels! For a longer trip, one can press on to Delhi Metropark, which makes for a longer, almost 4-hour paddle.

It’s also worth noting that this section of rivers has several sections of riffles and very easy weirs and small rapids to navigate. As I will stress again, these more technical sections can vary drastically depending on the season and the water levels. I have been on this section when the water is high in late spring, and even seemingly simple sections can be far more treacherous when the water is fast and high. Know the river levels, know the hazards, and PLEASE, always wear a suitable life jacket. I promise, I practice what I preach - I am a former lifeguard, and I wore my PFD the entire 5 days of my trip in low, very calm waters.

This section of river also passes through a bit of private property north of Dexter. From high-end mansions to sprawling yards to older homes that have stairs that lead right down to the river, there is quite a variety of real estate along this stretch of river. Another landmark of note is a stretch of river that’s notably devoid of trees. It was in this section that a tornado tore through the river valley in 2012. As a teacher in Dexter Schools, I was actually in my school building when the tornado roared through about a half mile away. It was a huge trauma to the Dexter community, and it’s always eerie for me to see this stretch of destruction, which was littered with freshly fallen trees when I first paddled the river after the tornado.

We soon came to the Delhi rapids. In my opinion, this is the most tricky and technical point of the Huron River. When the water is high in Spring, these rapids can really rage and should not be tackled by inexperienced paddlers. However, given the low waters and August date of our trip, the rapids were quite mild in this stretch. We made it about halfway through before having to get out and walk our heavily-loaded canoe the rest of the way. While making one’s way through Delhi, it’s worth taking note of the historic bridge that crosses the river. This unique truss bridge was once knocked off of its foundation due to a tornado, but has been recently restored and is one of the most architecturally interesting bridges along the Huron River.

After enjoying our lunch at Delhi Metropark, we made our way to the most urban stretch of the river through the city of Ann Arbor. As we grew closer and closer to the city and its first backwaters at Barton Pond, we began to notice the mansions that reside in the Barton Hills area. This section of river hosts some of the priciest real estate in Ann Arbor, and it’s easy to understand why. Massive houses overlook Barton Pond from high bluffs, and the pond itself was surprisingly devoid of river traffic. This would change as we continued our way downriver.

The portage at Barton Dam was complicated by two factors - a complete lack of social distancing and damage to features that were meant to make the portage itself easier. As we approached the floating dock before the dam, we found it packed to the gills with unmasked teenagers, who were enjoying their time sunbathing on the river. After masking up, we picked our way around them, trying to ignore their annoyed looks at the odd canoers invading this stretch of river. As we made our way down the other side of the dam, we were excited to find another set of boat rails to help with the portage. However, the last section of those boat rails had been removed, leaving nothing but empty supports for the final stretch. I have no idea why anyone would want to take the rails off of this thoughtfully-constructed support for paddlers, but it has happened!

Not long after portaging over Barton Dam, we came to the backwaters of Argo Dam. The area around Argo is heavily-trafficked and enjoyed for two obvious reasons. First and foremost, this is the launching point for many of the river trips facilitated via the canoe liveries operated through the city of Ann Arbor. At the Argo Livery, guests can rent canoes, kayaks, or (during non-pandemic times) inner tubes. While some guests are content to simply tube the Cascades, which will be detailed in a moment, others will take their rented boat or tube all the way to the Gallup livery, which can be anywhere from a 2-4 hour trip. Again, entirely dependent on water levels and river flow!

The second interesting and crowd-inducing feature of the area around Argo is the Argo Cascades. The Cascades were created as a very interesting solution to a tricky problem, that one resource outlines as such:

“Prior to the Cascades project, Argo Canoe Livery was located on a quarter-mile stretch of stagnant water that ended at a concrete wall, a barrier which required visitors to portage down a series of steps with their canoes or kayaks to re-enter the river.

“The portage was a source of great frustration,” said Smith. “For many, it was a reason why they either couldn’t or wouldn’t take our most popular trip, a two hour paddle from Argo to Gallup Park.”

Construction on the project began in the Summer of 2011 to create a series of drops and pools that connect Argo Pond to the Huron River. The stretch includes nine drops that fall approximately 10 feet in elevation, eliminating the portage and creating a boat bypass channel. For the first time since 1830 (when the channel was built to power mills), Argo Cascades has returned the section of river to its previous free-flowing status.”

Retrieved from: https://cdn.ymaws.com/www.mparks.org/resource/collection/099A0F9F-56F6-4DF2-BFA1-FAC42C2EDCD0/Argo%20Cascades%20Project%20-%205.1%20-%202013.pdf

On a Wednesday afternoon, the Cascades were full of tubers, kayakers, and sunbathers. I have been told that Summer weekend can be ridiculously busy around the Cascades, and even so, I was surprised to see how busy it good on a weekday afternoon! For easy tubing trips down this section with my 4-year-old, we come early on a weekday, before the livery opens at 9 AM. This gives us several opportunities to run the rapids (which takes about 15 min/run on a tube), hike back up the path, and do it all over again before the crowds begin to arrive.

As Heather and I made our way down the Cascades, we worried about the weight and inertia of our loaded canoe as tubes drifted and swimmers dove in front of us. During very crowded times, this seems like an accident waiting to happen, and we took extra care to try back-paddle after each drop to judge our distance and timing in relation to other folks who were enjoying this fun feature of the river.

The last drop out of the Cascade and back into the main channel of the Huron is a doozy! After swamping our boat a bit, we quickly pulled over, dumped the water out of our trusty vessel, and continued on the way.

The stretch of river between Argo Dam and the backwaters of the Dixboro dam was lovely and mostly surrounded by parkland. My favorite park in particular is Island Park, situated (obviously) on an island within the Huron River. The architecture is beautiful and it is a wonderful place to picnic or get one’s feet wet in the water. On a more personal note, it was at this park where my husband took me on our third date and later proposed to me! Needless to say, it’s near and dear to my heart.

As we paddled the Ann Arbor stretch of the Huron River, we wove between many kayaks and cluster of tubes. Like the Cascades, I found it surprisingly busy for a late afternoon on a Wednesday, but during a global pandemic, floating down a river is a great way to enjoy some socially-distanced fun!

As the day grew long, we made our way into the backwaters of the Dixboro Dam, where the Gallup canoe livery, the second of two city-run liveries, can be found. The backwaters here are extensive and can be enjoyed via a day-trip from the livery located here. These backwaters are also home to several local crew teams, who share the waters with us paddlers from time to time. As we continued towards our final destination for the evening, the crowds thinned out until we had the flat water (and once again, headwinds!) to ourselves.

By dinner time, we reached the Dixboro Dam. A floating dock and ramp make for an easy exit, and it is a short walk to the other side of the dam. As there are no camping options in the Ann Arbor or Ypsilanti area, the parking lot at Dixboro Dam is where my incredible husband/ground crew picked us up. We lashed the boat to my car, made the short trip to my home just south of Ann Arbor, and enjoyed much-appreciated showers, a home-cooked meal, and a good night’s rest in a real bed. I’m glad we rested up, because the next day would prove to be one of our toughest physical challenges of the trip!

Highlights

• The stretch from Hudson Mills to Delhi is gorgeous

• Rapids and riffles provide some fun variety

• Cider Mill in the Fall is a must-try trip!

• Argo Cascades are super fun

• This river is very accessible for day trips

Concerns

• Crowds! Lots of groups of people, most unmasked, made social distancing doable, but trickier

• Rapids can prove a real risk in high waters. Take care and portage around when they are treacherous

• Damage to portage structure at Barton Dam

Thoughts for the Future

• The day trip between Argo and Gallup is an easy 2-hour stretch in a boat or 4-hour stretch in a tube. This is a fun trip to take family and friends on, especially as the trip starts with the Cascades!

Day 4: Dixboro Dam to Walnut Grove Campground at Lower Huron Metropark

20.6 Miles, 4 portages, some tricky, about 10 hours paddle time

After an excellent night’s sleep back at home, it was time to make our way back to the Huron for the final two days of our trip. This proved to be the rest we needed before what was probably our longest slog of the trip. While it started with some novel and downright interesting sites and the stretch through Ypsilanti was a highlight, we were soon to meet some tougher portages, big waters, and, as always, headwinds!

We began back at the Dixboro Dam, where we had ended the previous day. The portage itself is not a long one, and the access point is located just past a public parking lot. The put in point itself involved narrow scramble down some rocks and onto a littered beach. As we continued on the final two days of our trip, we noticed more and more of this kind of scene: Heavily-littered/impacted land around the many dams we’d encounter that day.

After launching, we paddled past developed riverside that was built up and surrounded by local companies and hospitals. Soon, the river slowed, and we paddled into the backwaters of the superior dam. More industrial surroundings made way to quieter waters with impressive homes built high up on the bluffs and other homes that had flat yards running right up to the water. The early morning air was cool, the wind was low, and we were in good spirits as we made our way across these backwaters.

Soon, we came to the Superior Dam, which had a well-marked takeout point to the right side of the dam. While the portage around was a bit longer and had some steep, rocky sections, the path was clear, if not a bit overgrown by weeds. There was one section that had a low-hanging tree that we squeezed under, and with one work day (perhaps I’ll come back with some garden tools!) the path could be easily reclaimed and made more accessible. There is a lovely stone beach at the bottom of this portage, and it was evident that some locals have enjoyed a bonfire or two at this riverside spot. The put in was easy, and soon we were on our way towards Ypsilanti.

The backwaters of the Penninsular Paper Dam are an interesting site. Homes along this stretch range from grand to humble, and one riverside home, which was the only one to sit right on the water itself, caught our attention. We also spotted a relatively uncommon sight this far north - a healthy population of American Water Lotus, which impressed us with their massive blossoms and island-like leaves that were feet across. They were a real treat to observe.

The Penninsular Paper Dam was our next stop, and while it is an iconic landmark in Ypsilanti, it is also one that is about to undergo what I believe to be a great and positive change. The questions and answers provided by the Huron River Watershed Council give a great overview of the history of the dam, the hazards it poses, and the benefits of dam removal:

“The dam was originally constructed in 1867 to provide power for paper manufacturing; it failed in 1918 and was rebuilt in 1920. The Peninsular Paper Company Dam powered a paper mill in Ypsilanti that produced newsprint for Chicago for a century from the 1860’s to the 1970’s. In the mid-1980s, the Peninsular Paper Company donated the Peninsular Paper Dam and land to the City of Ypsilanti. The city created a park on the land and is now responsible for maintaining the dam.

The City of Ypsilanti is responsible for managing the dam and paying for inspections and repairs.

• Under State law, the dam is not compliant with safety standards. The city is legally obligated to fix it up– or remove it. The cost to repair it is estimated at $807,000.

• Once repaired, there will be ongoing inspection and maintenance costs.

• The aging dam can be hazardous and is a liability for the city if an accident occurs.

• It does not provide power anymore and it would cost far more to fix up the dam to generate electricity again than the revenue it could gain from the newly generated electricity.

• Pen Dam is a high hazard dam that no longer generates power and costs taxpayers money to maintain and fix.

• The dam does not meet state safety standards and the city is legally required to fix or remove it.

• Without the dam Peninsular Park and the Huron River become more accessible for recreation and enjoyment.

• The improved park and building will support businesses by creating a renewed area for residents and visitors.

• Removing the dam will cost taxpayers less in the long run than repairing and maintaining it.

• The dam harms the environment. The health of the river and wildlife would improve, which would also raise the quality of life for all in the area.

• Making the dam generate electricity again is not an option because the dam can’t produce enough power to pay for conversion, permitting, and maintenance.

If the dam is repaired ($807,000), the costs for maintaining it will continue and increase due to the aging infrastructure. Furthermore, the city will have to do inspections every 3 years. There are no grant funds available for repairing the dam so the City will need to pay for it.

Grants for dam removal are a potential funding source for supporting removal and restoration costs. The feasibility study estimates the cost for removing the dam at $1,734,000 with additional costs for scour protection and reinforcement at two bridges (see the report for details.)

With the dam removed, the size of Peninsular Park would increase to include the land on the north side of the river that is currently submerged behind the dam. The full potential of Pen Park can be realized because the entire stretch of waterfront would no longer be divided by the dam. The former powerhouse, with its distinctive architecture and landmark neon sign, could be preserved and restored to provide a signature waterfront location for community residents to come together, celebrate Ypsilanti’s local heritage, and enjoy the river. It could also provide commercial opportunities, such as canoe, kayak and bicycle rental or other ventures.

The City of Ypsilanti owns the building so the community needs to decide the future of the building and park.

The City is required to pay for inspections and repairs of the dam so it has fewer funds to spend on community programs and infrastructure. Also, since the dam harms the river and wildlife, the quality of life in the community is compromised.

Because the dam blocks the flow of the river, people who fish have less to catch and canoe/kayakers have to remove their boats, walk around the dam, and put their boats back in. If the dam is removed, river recreation will increase and businesses near the river will have more customers.”

Retrieved from: https://www.hrwc.org/what-we-do/programs/dams-and-impoundments-program/ypsilanti-peninsular-paper-dam/

Needless to say, I’m excited to see how the river changes when this dam is removed! Until then, the portage involves a tight turn from the dock, a bit of a walk, and then a walk down cement stairs and loading off a cement dock. We actually had to hop off the dock to load our gear due to the low water levels. The building at this dam really is iconic, and I’m excited to be featured in the enlarged park that will be created when the dam is removed.

The paddle through Ypsilanti was gorgeous. On a summer morning, the water was full of riffles, devoid of other paddlers, and surrounded by beauty. Riverside Park is a favorite of mine, complete a long stretch of riverside land, a great playground for kids, and stunning river views. It was here that we met our dedicated ground crew (my beloved, patient, and amazing husband), who brought us the gallon jugs of fresh water we had left at home, along with some surprise gifts of fresh fruit and sour patch kids to fuel us. He’s a gem! The rest of Ypsilanti was dotted with homes and stretches of private land, but it wasn’t long before 1-94 roared ahead of us and we paddled our way into our first stretch of wide open water on Ford Lake.

As we paddled into Ford Lake, we marveled at the abandoned and heavily-industrialized grounds of a (fittingly) former Ford plant. While it may be blasphemy to say so here in Southeast Michigan, Henry Ford became a bit like the bad guy of my Huron River story. The argument could certainly be made that he did not fully understand how his choices, made in the 1920’s and 1930’s, would impact the river down the line. However, over the course of the next two days, his impact was evident in many locations and starting at Ford Lake itself, the general quality of the river’s waters began to diminish.

Ford Lake itself is full of interesting sites. From rambling park lands to golf courses to islands, the shoreline is entirely developed for recreation or habitation. This stretch of river had much more high-density housing in the forms of apartments and condominiums. These buildings towered over the shores of Ford Lake, while docks and racks hosted paddling craft, pontoon boats, and and odd sailboat. As we paddled against a headwind, we dodge one such sailboat that was tacking to and fro in the gentle headwinds that increased as the morning wore on. After an almost 4-mile paddle over open water, we came to Ford Dam, which may have been our longest portage of the trip. The takeout point is clear and obvious, but it surprised us to learn that we had to walk a ways down the side of a busy road, cross that road, and then take a path into North Hydro Park where we could launch. Getting our gear across was not a problem, but after finally learning an overhead carry (thanks, Heather!), we had to carefully time our road crossing between packs of fast-moving cars. It was not a very fun experience, but we found the launch site afterwards to be easy to use and well-maintained.

We enjoyed a quick lunch and hydration break at North Hydro Park before paddling into our greatest challenge of endurance the entire trip: Belleville Lake

Belleville Lake is an almost 7-mile long lake that winds behind the French Landing Dam. This lake is lined from shore to shore with high-end homes, summer cottages, and even a yacht club. Paddling along this stretch reminded me of trying to canoe at my family’s cottage at Wampler’s lake on a busy Summer afternoon. Fancy ski boats and wakeboarders zipped by us, pontoon boats puttered by, and fishermen tested the waters in their small outboard boats. There was much people watching to be had during the long paddle through Belleville Lake, but the headwinds and our focus on navigating through boat traffic kept our eyes on the water most of the time.

Heather delighted in steering our canoe to safely face the boat wakes head on, and she would whoop with delight each time our boat bobbed up and down (amplified by her help). Heather’s training lies in open waters, while I’m more a technical river girl. It was evident that she was loving the challenge while I was struggling. Thank goodness for such a positive paddling partner, who constantly reminded me to keep hydrated, stay positive, and gave me the most delicious, melty snickers bar I’ve ever had during a quick paddle break on a random peninsula in the lake.

At the end of Belleville Lake, we came to the French Landing Dam. My guidebook noted that this was a long and possibly treacherous portage. I’ve even seen it recommended that others help you get around the dam, and I even had offers from folks following us on Facebook to help us get around this spot! A helpful Redditor who knew of our trip drew us a picture of what the portage looks like - I’ve included it here as I found it to be super helpful. Thank you, u/betterworldbiker! While it was a fairly long portage, it did not feel as long as the Ford Lake Dam portage. However, there was a narrow set of stairs that had to be navigated and a very small beach from which to launch. As with other dams in the area, we found the area all along the portage to be strewn with garbage, many of which came from other’s meals or fishing supplies. As we carried the boat overhead and picked our way around the narrow portage, Heather taught me to repeat the traditional chant spoken by those on a Nibi Walk. The rhythm and repetition put us on a steady pace as we carried the canoe above us to the small launch below.

Immediately after the dam, the forests around the river returned thanks to the surrounding Lower Huron Metropark. While the return of shade, forest views, and nature were a welcome sight, we also found that the character of the river had changed dramatically after Ford and Belleville lake. The water was more still and choked with weeds. It smelled different and had far more turbidity (murkiness due to sediments). The shores and bottom were no longer gravelly, but dark and mucky with sediment. She was low and slow, and we paddled hard in the evening sun to finally get to our destination of the Walnut Grove Campground at Lower Huron Metropark.

We stayed at site 7C in the tent-only campground, which is closest to the river. However, there is no way to access this site by canoe due to the high bluff, so it was necessary to take our boat out at the designated access point, which is marked by a sign from the Huron River Water Trail. We left our boat at this launch, which was a good distance away from our actual campsite, but fortunately, none of the other campers decided to pay it any mind as it sat for a night. The campground itself was not the rustic experience that we had grown accustomed to at Island Park and Hudson Mills. We shared the campground with a fleet of RVs and campers, and the tent sites were small and packed close together, offering very limited privacy. We shared the tent campground that evening with one other family, a kind dad and his son, but I can’t imagine how tight the sites must be if all 8 were reserved.

Unfortunately, this is not a great campground for hammock camping. I picked through the heavily-littered woods that sat along the bluff above the river and finally settled on a site that was surrounded by poison ivy and hanging a tad closer to the bluff than I wanted. There is a saying in hammock camping that you “shouldn’t hang where you don’t want to fall”, and while I was confident I wouldn’t tumble into the river should my hammock fail that night, it was still a much closer call than I would have liked.

What should have been a peaceful’s night sleep by the river was unfortunately disturbed by a couple that roared into the parking lot of the tent campground, screamed at each other for a few minutes, and then sped off. This would not have been something too troubling, until we discovered that an elderly, confused dog had been left behind. The poor guy was too afraid to approach us, so I called the local police, who apparently had already been dispatched to the campground for a domestic dispute. After standing in the dark for some time keeping an eye on the wandering dog while the police worked with the couple, the dog was finally reunited with his owner and we were free to finally turn in for the night.

Needless to say, I did not have the best night of sleep, but I was excited to know that the next day would be my final stretch on the river and the following evening, I would be laying my eyes on Lake Erie itself!

Highlights

• Spotting American Lotus flowers on the backwaters of the Penninsular Paper Dam

• The river through Ypsilanti is beautiful

• Met some really nice people along this stretch of the river who always seemed willing to help!

• Pro tip: You can order pizza and cannolis from Toarmina's when staying at the Walnut Grove Campground. This tasted AMAZING after a long day of paddling!

Concerns

• From Ford Lake all the way to Lower Huron Metropark, nearly all of the shoreline is developed

• After this stretch the effect of human impacts was painfully evident

• Harmful algal blooms on Ford Lake were a concern, though we did not see any

• We found we no longer wanted to swim in the river by the end of this day

• The open water paddling across Ford Lake and Belleville lake are a strenuous challenge

Thoughts for the Future

• I am really excited about the stretch of river around the Penninsular Paper Dam. Once the dam is removed, the trip from Dixboro Dam (sadly, there’s no easy access at the Superior Dam) to Riverside Park in Ypsi or and access site on Ford Lake will make for a really fun day trip

Day 5: Walnut Grove Campground at Lower Huron Metropark to Hull’s Trace Landing at Lake Erie

27.6 Miles, 2 portages, about 8 hours paddle time

After our interesting evening at Walnut Grove Campground, I awoke to quiet, still morning. As I lounged in my hammock for a bit longer, I could hear herons calling and fish jumping in the river below the bluff where I camped. It was a great way to start our final push through the final 27 miles of our journey, and after packing up camp, we were eager to be on our way and to meet friends who would be, as they described it, our “honor guard” during the final leg of our trip!

After about an hour of padding, we met up with our old camp friend, Alex, and his biologist husband, Jake at the East Bend Launch at Lower Huron Metropark. How lucky we were to have these gentlemen paddle along with us! As we made our way through the forested bends of the Huron, we reminisced about our days working and living at YMCA Storer Camps and Jake answered our many questions about river health, local species, and human impacts on waterways. We learned so much as we chatted and plodded along on slow and still waters. As we slowly ticked off mile after mile, I wondered how much faster this trip might be with higher water levels and greater water volume. This paddle in August certainly made us work for our miles, and I felt sorry for our companions who had no one but themselves to power their own kayaks!

As we made our way into Willow Metropark, dark storm clouds began to build up and we heard a rumble of thunder or two. We pulled out our phones to check the weather radar, scanned the skies, and decided to pull off for a moment and reevaluate the situation from the Big Bend Launch at Willow Metropark. We knew that we still had about 2 hours to go until our planned break for lunch in Flat Rock, but did not want to get ourselves stuck in an electrical storm on the water, especially since much of the river had high, muddy banks that would make for a tricky pull-off and would force me to get out my tarp to give us some shelter if need be. However, for the second time in our trip, the storms seemed to split around us and move to the west. Perhaps it was an odd weather pattern for us that week or perhaps it was some greater force looking out for us, but whatever it was, we were grateful for it!

The character of the river remained consistent throughout Lower Huron, Willow, and Oakwoods Metropark. The waters were slow, wide, and murky and were surrounded by high, muddy bluffs that alternated between shady woodlands and open, manicured park lands. Along this stretch we continued to spot osprey, herons, waxwings, kingfishers, and other river birds who had become our constant companions during the trip. As the afternoon wore on, we made our way into Flat Rock, the last of the trail towns that we would visit along our journey.

The Flat Rock Dam portage is unique in the sense that one must call ahead to request that an access gate be unlocked for the portage. I had called both a week and a day prior to our portage, and when we arrived, we were pleased to see the gate closed, but unlocked and ready for our passage. The portage was a bit longer, but certainly not as long as the passages over the Ford Lake and French Landing Dams. We hauled our gear across a set of train tracks and made our way to to HuRoc Park, where we had an easy launch from the shore. We paddled a bit further before facing another portage at the Covered Bridge Dam, which was surrounded by a pretty and well-enjoyed city park. After pulling our boats out of the river, I took a quick walk down the road to snag our waiting lunch at Atwater Street Tacos, which we would later eat under the shade of a tree at the park. This was an EXCELLENT choice. My fish tacos were spicy, filling, and exactly what I needed to fuel the final leg of our adventure. While picking up our lunch, I noticed that the business is running a kayak and tube livery for the last stretch of the Huron as well. On a Friday afternoon, business was good, and had plenty of friendly company on the river during the next bit of our paddle.

After lunch, we enjoyed a short stretch of riffles just past the Covered Bridge Dam, and then were back into the slow, murky waters that we had become accustomed to on this stretch of the river. Tubers and kayakers enjoyed the river bends past Flat Rock with us until the crowds finally thinned out at their take-out point, which appeared to be the South Rockwood Boat Ramp just before the river dips beneath I-75.

With the river to ourselves and ominous clouds looming behind us, we tried hard to keep our pace, feeling sorry for poor Alex and Jake in the kayaks behind us. As we grew nearer to Lake Erie, the river widened and slowed even more, so much so that we started to notice flooded yards and docks. This was evidence of the record-high water levels of the Great Lakes this year. From houses falling off bluffs into Lake Michigan to yards and docks turned into marshy messes, the effects of the lakes’ heights can be felt even through stretches of the Huron River!

With each stroke of our paddle, we made our way through a long stretch of privately-owned land. The homes in this stretch of river were far more modest than the towering mansions we had seen on day three of our trip, and many yards were adorned with all manners of docks, a cool tree houses, boats, and evidence that the folks along this stretch of river, as opposed to those in mansions perched on high bluffs, seem to use and enjoy the river more frequently. As our arms began to ache and our hands were going numb, the number of houses increased and low yards were replaced with sea walls. As we made our way during this final stretch, many families were out back enjoying the start to their weekends on an early Friday evening.

Then, we spotted it - the bridge that crosses the river at Hull’s Trace. On the other side of this bridge would be mile 0: The point where the Huron River begins to empty out into Lake Erie. As we whooped and hollered with delight, my heart swelled to see Heather’s family and my husband were waiting and cheering for us at our takeout point. Soon, we were surrounded by family and friends once again, and the end of our journey was near.

As boats were lashed to cars, Heather, myself, and her immediate family gathered at the docks that faced Lake Erie to take part in the final ceremony tied to Heather’s sacred nibi (water) paddle. Heather prayed to the Great Spirit and expressed her thanks for the safe passage, good weather, and growth that we had both experienced through these five days together on the water. At this moment, I was overwhelmed with gratitude. I was grateful for Heather, who was so enthusiastically on board for this adventure ever since I floated the idea on Facebook. I was grateful for her positive attitude, experience, and humor that got us through both the fun and trying moments of our trip. I was grateful for my husband, who has put up with weeks of planning, shuttling us about, watching our young son, and just being an incredibly supportive partner through the entire experience. I was grateful for those who gave us advice, encouragement, and donations for our fundraiser along the way. And more than anything, I was grateful for this beautiful river, which I have come to understand so much more through our adventure.

Highlights

• A great day paddling with wonderful friends

• Learning about river ecology and human impacts to the river from Jake!

• Street tacos in Flatwater

• Our finale at Lake Erie

Concerns

• The river remains heavily impacted in this stretch. The water is murky, banks are high and muddy, and there are long paddles between good stopping points

• Damage to riverfront properties due to Lake Erie’s high water levels

• The river gets much more industrialized the closer we got to Lake Erie

• Two portages in quick succession in Flat Rock

Thoughts for the Future

• The stretches through the metroparks were full of wildlife and would be fun to do again

• I would love to come back and paddle around Pointe Mouillee a bit more